Starting off at 5am on the 30th of Dec 2009, our destination was the temple of Preah Vihear situated in the north of Cambodia near the border of Thailand. After two hours on a smooth highway we are at Anlong Veng which was the last stronghold of the Khmer Rouge and also the supposed final resting place of Pol Pot. 2 more hours along a dusty but smooth road and we are at the base of the Dângrêk Mountains. We chang over to an army pickup truck and go up along the streep road up to the temple, along an army guy jumps into our truck and seems to be our supplementary guide and escort for the rest of the journey.Constructed mainly during the reigns of the Khmer kings Suriyavarman I and II dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, Preah Vihear has been a sight of dispute between the Thais and Cambodians. In 1962 the Internation Court of Justice awarded the temple to the Cambodians. After the end of the Cambodian civil war in 1998, the temple was opened for tourists from the Thai side - from where it could be easily accessed via an expressway. Even after the construction of an access road up the cliff from the Cambodian side, there was still limited access by tourists from this side. Preah Vihear was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in July 2008, but fresh disputes broke out in October 2008 and April 2009. The access from Thailand was closed during this time, but is supposedly reopened now, though we didn't see anyone approach from that side. The visitors center with the Thai flag flying above it can be clearly seen.
After a 20 minute ascent, we arrive at the temple near the first Gopura. The staircase below leads to a market which was destroyed in April by Thai shelling. Most of the stones of this gopura have fallen off but some are precariously balanced. Walking up along the stone path we pass through the other 3 gopuras which contain carvings from Hindu mythologies. At the topmost gopura we are greeted by the sounds of music being played by the soldiers there, apparently to call the gods to the temple. Inside we receive blessings from some Buddhist monks there.
Beyond the topmost gopura, we come to the tip of the cliff from which there is a breathtaking view of Cambodia and to the north Thailand. Below the rocky outcrop is a small space in which we were told the civilians around could hide if fighting broke out again. Coming back down we are shown the wells like area which have now dried up due to deforestation in the area. The Cambodian army also proudly point out their artillery and anti-aircraft weapons on our way down while our guide gives us a history and politics lesson. On our way down we see a few Thai soldiers who are still stationed in a small monestary along the road (though it is on the Cambodian side).
Four hours later we are back in Siem Reap. The journey was not as ardous or treacherous as the guide books make it out to be, and neither is it as expensive as some tour companies in Siem Reap make it, if you privately arrange for a guide and transport. Though most of the mines around the temple have been cleared, the area around it is still not so it is a good idea to stick to the worn paths and follow your guide. The experience and the sights were well worth the trip. Once the road between Anlong Veng and the temple is completed the journey should be much smoother and the Cambodians expect more tourists to come. Right now not many make the jouney as we saw only about 2 or 3 other groups while we were there and a few locals.
